Hello from Dingboche! We both had
great nights—we probably both had about 8+ hours of sleep. Greatly appreciated and certainly
needed!
After breakfast, our little gang of six geared up and headed up valley
towards Chunkung. By the way, I figured
out how things are organized here. There
are three groups: The Trekkers, The main
climbing group, and our gang of six. Today
was a modest day (“rest”) for the first two.
Garrett (who runs the show) is trying to optimize for his group of 8
Everest climbers, who have a range of experience and capability, so it made
sense for his group to have an easier day.
Our gang of six is being led by Brent and is being optimized around what
makes the most sense for Anders and John, our two 30 year olds (well John is
31). Since both of these guys are so
strong, our objective today was to climb quite high to help accelerate their
acclimatization routine. Of course Kent
and I (the two dads) are tagging along and since we’ve been able to hang with
it so far, we’ve stayed together as a group.
The initial hike up the river valley was quite mellow where the toughest
thing was dodging a Yak or two. We moved
quickly and both Anders and I felt great (I felt the best I’ve felt on this
trip so far). The views were
extraordinary (I know I say this all the time, but they just keep getting
better). Aba Dablam, and especially
Lhotse and Nuptse were the stars for sure.
We were essentially going up a valley that passes to the west of Aba
Dablam and directly below the southern flanks of Nuptse and the intimidating
South Face of Lhotse. On the other side
of Nuptse and Lhotse is the Khumbu Ice Fall and EBC, where we will arrive soon
enough. At one point we passed a Chorten
dedicated to three Polish climbers who had died trying to climb the South Fac
of Lhotse in the 80s, including one fellow who had summited all 8,000 meter
peaks with no oxygen. A sober reminder
of what is really going on here.
We eventually passed the village of Chunkung and then headed up the
steep flanks of Chunkung-Ri (essentially Chunkung hill). This proved to be quite challenging climbing
as we had started at 14,250 feet down valley at Dingboche and the slopes
climbed rapidly from the 15,000 or so feet of Chunkung.
This was a full-on effort and I have to say I felt great. After we had climbed 2,000 feet or so, John
decided to stop and soak up some of the abundant sunshine. The weather was once again fantastic,
although it was colder—probably around 35 degrees with a solid 20 mph
wind. Despite this, the effort of
climbing led me to wear just my t-shirt and a super light wind shirt.
The four Everest climbers were of course quite a bit quicker and they
would stop every now and then and wait for me.
Brent had told us that he wanted us to go “slow” today to maximize
acclimatization, although slow was a pretty good clip for me. I more or less climbed continuously up the
slope of Chunkung-Ri. This was by far
the hardest day of our trip but I felt outstanding and I was determined to go
as far as Brent would let me.
At one point, a man and woman came down the hill and said: “You must be
RC” and then he explained he was very good friends with Brent and we stopped
and chatted for a bit. He told me that
my objective was the Col that was towering several hundred meters above
me. I learned later from Brent that this
fellow was one of the most accomplished climbers in the world having summited
K2 without oxygen (among other things).
I shouldered on eventually reaching the Col and joining the rest of my
team. We were now all at 17,600
feet—essentially the altitude of Everest Base Camp. This was one heck of a climb! I must admit feeling a bit of pride to make
it with the rest of my team. The views
to the west were now opened up and we could see Cho Oyo (the 6th
highest mountain in the world) among many others.
As Brent, Anders, John, and Geoff had been waiting a while, Brent pretty
quickly said time to head down (no rest for the slow guy!). We then proceeded to power all the way (4.5
miles), back down the slope and then down the valley, back to Dingboche. In total we covered 9.1 miles in 5 hours and
55 minutes. We ascended and descended
3,800 feet, all above 14,250 feet. I
have to say that this was one bad-ass climb and I feel very good that I was
able to do it with such relative ease.
It will be interesting to see how my legs feel tomorrow, but this was a
real confidence builder for me. The rest
of the team where so, so strong and I believe they are extremely well
positioned (although we have a long way to go) for the coming attempt on
Everest.
I chatted with Anders and Brent at length in separate conversations on
the way down and we reached some agreements about the plan going forward. Basically, the four Everest climbers (Anders,
John, Geoff and Brent) are doing so well that we want to modify the plan going
forward to put them higher up Everest, sooner—thus improving both their chances
and the relative safety of their climb.
I feel very, very good about this, as the only variables Anders and I
are trying to optimize are Anders’ safety and likelihood of success. More on this later.
We move to the west and up to Loboche tomorrow. In just a couple days we will arrive at EBC,
if all goes well. We both feel great and
are truly having a great time!
2 comments:
This is awesome! I'm so proud of you guys! I'm glad you both are having such an amazing experience. Love you both so much!
These views are just unbelievable! I'm so happy the two of you are experiencing such beauty and incredible vastness all around you. It must be overwhelming. Proud of you for hanging with the young boys today Randy, I know how fast Anders flies up those mountains, but your steady pace seems to get you there eventually! Glad they wait for you and let you see it all.
btw, I am not a robot but I must be slow myself because it takes me about 10 tries to beat the "I am not a robot" test on these comment pages! Love, the mom left at home driving on the NJ turnpike today and seeing views not nearly as spectacular
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