This is Judy again updating for the guys. I've spoken to Randy quite a few times over the past few days by satellite phone, but we have never had a clear connection and we get disconnected several times per call. So, disclaimer -- he may be adjusting some of these details when he finally has internet! And they haven't been able to send pictures, so he will add those in later.
Their current Location: Condoriri Group in La Coordillera Blanca in Bolivia
After gauging the mountaineering experience and skills of the 5 team members, the guides had decided to add a rather challenging first mountain to their agenda: Pequeno Alpamayo. This 17,482 foot mountain requires some advanced technical mountaineering skills: roped travel on glaciated terrain, Class 4 rock climbing, and knowledgeable overhead use of double ice axes and crampons to climb steep, icy pitches. Anders has climbed the seven summits, and Randy five of the seven, so they are certainly very experienced and knowledgable mountaineers, and have had to manage some ice walls, crevasses, extreme exposure risks, and all at challenging altitudes. And as anyone knows who hangs with either of them, they also are in top physical condition. However, hauling themselves with double ice axes overhead up incredibly steep pitches with extreme exposure would be a new experience and would definitely test their skill. Randy was honest with the guide that he did not have this technical experience, so would give it a shot and do his best, but was also comfortable to turn back at any point if the guides thought that made sense. His main objective had been to spend time with Anders out in the mountains, push themselves to climb and experience the beauty and challenge of the Bolivian Andes -- he had not exactly set out to be an ice or rock climbing pro!
The team had spent their first day at Condoriri Base Camp practicing these advanced mountaineering techniques. Randy said that training actually went pretty well. It was very hard to hear him from this location, but (I think) he did better than he expected but would just have to see how things went during their ascent. He said Anders did great and loved it, both of which were not surprising to me!
So Wednesday was the first major challenge for the team, setting out at 2 am with headlamps for their first summit push. The plan was to actually reach two summits in this ascent. En route to Pequeno Alpamayo, they would first summit Pico Tarija, also over 17,000 feet and a common summit destination unto itself, then descend (down-climb) the other side and climb up a very steep (80 degree) icy face to the summit of Alpamayo.
Here's a picture of the intimidating face of Alpamayo, with several steep pitches, including the final steep knife-edged ridge.
I was very relieved to hear from Randy later on Wednesday that he and Anders were both safely back in camp. Randy was out for about 9 hours, summiting Pico Tarija, and then descending back to their base camp with one of the guides. Anders summited Pico Tarija, then went on with the other guides and did manage to scale those icy walls and rocks and summit Pequeno Alpamayo. Anders said the ice and rock climbing were challenging but very fun; he loves this stuff! Both guys were tired, but feeling good and ready to rest after their middle of the night departure and demanding day. They recovered, had dinner, and spent another night in their tents. Randy slept about 10 hours which he clearly needed as he had been having trouble sleeping earlier in the trip.
I spoke to them yesterday (Thursday) as they were traveling by bus to their next destination, Huayna Potosi Base Camp. Here they will sleep in what are called "Refugios" -- basic shelters instead of tents. Today (Friday) they will work again on skills and acclimatizing. Tomorrow the plan is to hike up to the Huayna Potosi High Camp, and attempt their summit of Huayna Potosi starting off in the wee hours Sunday morning. I am not sure if they will be able to call, but I hope to hear from them before they set off for that ascent!
Their current Location: Condoriri Group in La Coordillera Blanca in Bolivia
After gauging the mountaineering experience and skills of the 5 team members, the guides had decided to add a rather challenging first mountain to their agenda: Pequeno Alpamayo. This 17,482 foot mountain requires some advanced technical mountaineering skills: roped travel on glaciated terrain, Class 4 rock climbing, and knowledgeable overhead use of double ice axes and crampons to climb steep, icy pitches. Anders has climbed the seven summits, and Randy five of the seven, so they are certainly very experienced and knowledgable mountaineers, and have had to manage some ice walls, crevasses, extreme exposure risks, and all at challenging altitudes. And as anyone knows who hangs with either of them, they also are in top physical condition. However, hauling themselves with double ice axes overhead up incredibly steep pitches with extreme exposure would be a new experience and would definitely test their skill. Randy was honest with the guide that he did not have this technical experience, so would give it a shot and do his best, but was also comfortable to turn back at any point if the guides thought that made sense. His main objective had been to spend time with Anders out in the mountains, push themselves to climb and experience the beauty and challenge of the Bolivian Andes -- he had not exactly set out to be an ice or rock climbing pro!
The team had spent their first day at Condoriri Base Camp practicing these advanced mountaineering techniques. Randy said that training actually went pretty well. It was very hard to hear him from this location, but (I think) he did better than he expected but would just have to see how things went during their ascent. He said Anders did great and loved it, both of which were not surprising to me!
So Wednesday was the first major challenge for the team, setting out at 2 am with headlamps for their first summit push. The plan was to actually reach two summits in this ascent. En route to Pequeno Alpamayo, they would first summit Pico Tarija, also over 17,000 feet and a common summit destination unto itself, then descend (down-climb) the other side and climb up a very steep (80 degree) icy face to the summit of Alpamayo.
Here's a picture of the intimidating face of Alpamayo, with several steep pitches, including the final steep knife-edged ridge.
I was very relieved to hear from Randy later on Wednesday that he and Anders were both safely back in camp. Randy was out for about 9 hours, summiting Pico Tarija, and then descending back to their base camp with one of the guides. Anders summited Pico Tarija, then went on with the other guides and did manage to scale those icy walls and rocks and summit Pequeno Alpamayo. Anders said the ice and rock climbing were challenging but very fun; he loves this stuff! Both guys were tired, but feeling good and ready to rest after their middle of the night departure and demanding day. They recovered, had dinner, and spent another night in their tents. Randy slept about 10 hours which he clearly needed as he had been having trouble sleeping earlier in the trip.
I spoke to them yesterday (Thursday) as they were traveling by bus to their next destination, Huayna Potosi Base Camp. Here they will sleep in what are called "Refugios" -- basic shelters instead of tents. Today (Friday) they will work again on skills and acclimatizing. Tomorrow the plan is to hike up to the Huayna Potosi High Camp, and attempt their summit of Huayna Potosi starting off in the wee hours Sunday morning. I am not sure if they will be able to call, but I hope to hear from them before they set off for that ascent!
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